nedeľa, 4. novembra 2007

Alice Springs - Darwin

Druha cast tury v australskom outbacku bola na 3 dni rozdelena 1600km dlha cesta zo stredu Australie, mestecka Alice Springs, do najseverenejsej casti Australie, pristavu s nazom Darwin. Cesta mala byt zaujimava, kedze malo byt mozne vidiet prechod z cervenej puste do tropickeho zeleneho na lesy bohateho uzemia. Prechod sice bol, ale vobec nie taky zjavny ako by sa dalo ocakavat a preto sa mi zdali niektore casti vyletu dost nudne. Predstavte si ze ste v minibuse, idete 500km stale rovno, ziadne odbocky, ziadne mesta, dediny, nic ... a zase nic ... a zase nic. Po tych par km natrafite na mesto. Mesto rozumej benzin pumpa, maly obchod, zachod a dom majitelov obchodu a pumpy.



Den 4

Po prvych troch dnoch v cervenom centre sme sa teda vybrali na sever - smer Darwin. Nasou prvou zastavkou po asi 200km bolo mestecko Ti Tree, kde sme mali moznost navstivit galeriu aboridzinskeho umenia a v pripade zaujmu zakupit nejaky z ponukanuych tovarov. Najcastejsie to boli obrazy, vysivky, digeridoo (hudobny nastroj aboridzincov), boomerangy a rozne ine nastroje pouzivane na lov.



Tuto fotografiu som urobil hned na zaciatku a vzapati ked som sa otocil, zbadal som obrovsky napis zakaz fotografovat - pokuta 3000 dolarov. Nastastie ma nikto nevidel a dalsie foto som uz radsej pre istotu nerobil. V samotnej galerii som ale nekupil nic, zdalo sa mi to trosku pridrahe. Nieco domov si ale urcite kupim tesne pred navratom v niektorej z galerii v Brisbane.

Po Ti Tree sme pokracovali v ceste v totalnej prazdnote. Cestou sme minuli len malicke mestecko Wycliff Well, ktore je preslavene najvacsim poctom zaznamov v Australii o UFO. Ludia tam preto vymodelovali niekolko ufoncov, ktorych tam vraj bolo za tych par rokov vidiet. Minuli sme aj zopar historickych budov - telegrafickych stanic, ktore sluzili este v case kedy nefungovali telefony.

Obed sme stravili v horucej pustatine so zvlastnym prirodnym ukazom, obrovskymi gulatymi a ovalnymi skalami s nazvom Devils Marbles (diabolske mramory).



Skaly su nazyvane diabolske, pretoze podla aboridzinskej legendy tam ziju malicky ludkovia, ktori kradnu ludi a ktokolvek sa tam objavi, stane sa obetou diabolskych malych ludkov. Bieli pristahovalci tomu spociatku nechceli verit, ale ked tam raz vyhnali na pastviny zopar krav a oviec, niekolko stovak kusov jednoducho zmizlo a doteraz sa nenaslo. Okrem toho su skaly aj zvlastnym prirodnym ukazom, pretoze nikde inde na svete nevznikli vodnou a veternou eroziou tak dokonale tvary ako prave tu.

Po Devils Marbles sme sa presunuli o niekolko stoviek km dalej vzdialeneho mestecka Banka Banka, kde sme stravili zvysok dna. Banka Banka je jedna obrovska farma hovadzieho dobytka (11.600km2). Kedze Australia je rozlohou obrovska krajina, bieli pristahovalci tu nasli obrovske priestranstva a pastviny pre kravy a ovce. Najvacsia farma je rozlohou velka priblizne ako Belgicko (cca 30.000km2). Na samotnej stanici sme mali moznost vidiet aj prezentaciu o chove hovadzieho dobytka v Australii kde nam bolo objasnene, preco je Australia spolu s Argentinou najvacsim exporterom hovadzieho masa.

Den 5

Vacsinu piateho dna sme stravili v buse cestovanim a vytesovali sa z kazdej znamky zivota ktoru sme po ceste stretli. Najviac zaujalo nasu pozornost niekolko solarnych automobilov. Totizto Stuart Highway ako nazyvaju cestu z Darwinu do Adelaide je idealna na testovanie solarnych vozidiel, kedze tam je dostatok slnka a cesta je rovna. Kazdorocne sa tam aj usporaduvaju preteky tychto vozidiel.



Dalsim typom vozidiel, ktore sa daju vidiet iba v tejto casti Australie su tzv. Road Train (cestne vlaky), co je v podstate kamion s niekolkymi navesmi. Najdlhsie maju aj desat navesov a dosahuju dlzku aj vyse 50m. Vdaka tomu, ze cesta je rovna, mozu premavat, v meste by to nemohlo fungovat, take dlhe vozidlo by sa nemohlo otocit.



Nasa prva vacsia zastavka bola v najstarsom pube (podniku) v severnom teritoriu s nazvom Daly Waters. Tento podnik ma zaujal nielen roznym mnozstvom srandovnych napisov, ale najma tym, ze kazdy navstevnik tam zanechal nejaku vec ako pamiatku. Za tie roky sa toho nazbieralo neskutocne mnozstvo. Ludia tam nechavali vsetko, tricka, spodne pradlo, nohavice, vlajky, ciapky, topanky, pasy, vodicaky, skratka cokolvek ste mali pri sebe, nieco ste tam nechali.



Ja som samozrejme nemohol byt vynimkou a tiez som tam zanechal pamiatku na moju osobu. S vyberom som to nemal az take zlozite, kedze den predtym pri vecernom futbale sa mi roztrhli kratasy. Na tie som napisal odkaz vsetkym slovakom a pripol som to na stenu, kde bolo este relativne aspon troska miesta. Takze ak sa tam niekto z Vas nahodou niekedy objavi, mozte tie moje kratasy tam pohladat.



Z Daly Waters sme sa po dobrom pivku a vydatnom obede presunuli o 300km do tropickej oazy, kde sme sa zastavili pri horucich prirodnych (termalnych) pramenoch Mataranka Springs. Po vystupeni nas ovalil riadny smrad z neskutocneho mnozstva netopierov, ktore nam lietali nad hlavou. V zivote som nevidel tolko netopierov po kope. Miliony a miliony.



Samotne horuce pramene boli asi 150metrov od vstupu do oazy a voda v nich mala okolo 26 stupnov, co bolo asi o 15 stupnov menej ako teplota vzduchu v danom mieste. Tak ci tak bola voda dost tepla a vobec nie taka osviezujuca ako sme cakali.



Preto sme sa presunuli o dalsich 100 metrov dalej, kde bola rieka o teplote asi 20 stupnov a ta bola uz o cosi osviezujucejsia. Tam sme si dobre zaplavali az do momentu, kedy sme uvideli v nasej rieke krokodila. V zivote sme tak rychlo neplavali von. A tak mam zopar skrabancov po nohach od konarov co boli pri pobrezi.




Nas sprievodca Ben sa z nas riadne nasmial. Potom nam ale vysvetlil, ze nastastie tam boli iba sladkovodne krokodily, ktore su pre ludi viac menej neskodne. Tie sa zivia iba rybami a z ludi maju strach. Mozu Vas sice pohryzt ak ich vy priamo napadnete ale inak sa kontaktu s ludmi vyhybaju. Ovela horsie su morske (slanovodne) krokodily, ktore su vsezrave a teda utocia aj na ludi. Tie sa ale nachadzaju viac na severe v blizkosti oceanu a teda sme neboli v nebezpeci. Tak ci tak mi ale nebolo vsetko jedno, ked ste vo vode a vidite krokodila, ktory je sice daleko ale priblizuje sa strasne rychlo (krokodily su najrychlejsi "plavci" na svete).

Prezil som a to je zaklad - ponaucenie do buducna (aspon pre mna) - vsimajte si napisy a upozornenia v blizkosti riek a jazier, inak sa Vam to nemusi vyplatit.

Den 6

V posledny den nas cakalo poslednych 500km, ktore sme ale absolvovali az poobede. Doobeda sme totiz navstivili Katherine Gorge, kde sme mali moznost preplavat pomedzi utesy na kanoe. Pre mna to bola najzaujimavejsia a najzabavnejsia cast tejto druhej casti vyletu. Najma ked ste mohli z kanoe kedykolvek vyskocit a vo vode sa poriadne schladit (samozrejme za predpokladu, ze ste sa uistili, ze nie je na okoli ziaden krokodil). Priroda navokol bola uplne nadherna a inak ako po vode sa tam dostat nedalo, takze neplavci, ktori sa na kanoe bali ist a zvolili radsej turisticky chodnik, nevideli ani zdaleka tolko co my.




Samotny cas straveny na kanoe bol okolo 5 hodin, takze sme tam v podstate stravili takmer cely den. Po kanoe sme sa vsetci unaveny nevedeli dockat, kedy dojdeme do Darwinu. 500km dlha cesta v minibuse preto pri spanku ubehla relativne rychlo. Po ceste sme sa zastavili iba raz v Adelaide River Inn natankovat a dat si zmrzlinu. Po dorazeni do Darwinu okolo siestej vecer, sme vsetci isli na spolocnu veceru a vecerne pivko a potom sa konecne poriadne vyspat, aby sme boli cerstvi na dalsie 3 dni stravene v tropickom pasme, horucave a neznesitelnej vlhkosti vzduchu, ale za to prekrasnej prirode.

Fotky z celej druhej casti vyletu najdete tu

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